by Terrance Mc Arthur

Meat. Flame. Smoke. Sauce. Rub. That spells BBQ, barbeque, barbecue, Food of the gods.

Long ago (back in the 2010s) and far away (in Clovis), there was a place called QN4U, a place for everything barbecued and more. It lives on in memory, and The Great Food Search still searches for a worthy successor to carry on its legacy. This month, we present two places. Both have been featured in past TGFS articles, but not together: Maw n’ Paw BBQ and Off the Grill. It’s interesting – both are on major roads: MnP on Clovis Avenue in Fresno, OtG on Academy Avenue in Sanger.

Maw n’ Paw BBQ—2686 N. Clovis Ave., Fresno—A repurposed propane tank sits out by Clovis Avenue north of Dakota, smoking seven different varieties of meat—dry-rubbed, slow-smoked tri-tip; pulled pork pulled within an inch of its life; paper-thin, brined and smoked pastrami that is my got-to-have; grilled chicken breast of mythic levels; sauce-infused hot links that may be classified as lethal weapons; half rack or full rack, dry-rubbed, slow-cooked pork ribs (Go for the full rack. Trust me.) Then there’s the Pawtato—a massive russet, sliced for more flavor access, butter-baked, with BBQ beans, shredded cheese, and the meat of your choice (for me, hold the beans to get more of the meat flavor, and I have to have my pastrami!). It’s fueled by the roots and heritage of four generations of Paducah, Kentucky Q, and their sauces—Sweetie (Southern comfort food), Smokey (Hickory Dickory Doc), Hottie (Keep the Home Fires Burning), and NuclearQ (Consult a physician before use). Open Monday-Friday, because the weekends are for full-bore catering. Good stuff.

Off the Grill—1132 Academy Ave., Sanger—They opened across from Sanger’s chili dog landmark, Chuck Wagon, during the pandemic period, and had family problems, but Off the Grill seems to have stabilized into a very nice BBQ eatery. It’s a narrow space, with a skinny counter along one wall with stools, and some outdoor tables under a pulled-out shade. Enough about the building! Get to the food!

To get a good idea of the food, I ordered a Three Meat Plate—tri-tip, pork rib, and chicken breast. The tri-tip was a pleasant surprise—you know how often you get dried-out tri-tip? This was meltable, flavorful, and something to write for you about! That brown/purple/red around the edge of each slice? The tear ability where a gentle tug breaks it into pieces? That smooth taste that lasts after you swallow? It had all of that! The ribs had that crunchy layer that gives way into soft meat that brings out the caveman in your soul as you rip and claw your way down to the bone. The chicken? Oh-so-much seasoning building flavor layers! Of course, there are sides. I had a fluffy pilaf and an unexpected potato salad like a scoop of mashed potato studded with celery and onion and more! The puffy roll you could fill with meat and slather with Off the Grill’s tasty BBQ sauce! Besides all that, there are burgers, bowls, salads, and—from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m.—breakfast burritos (and keto burritos, too!)!

The Verdict—Just because of the super-tender tri-tip, (and because it’s less than two miles from my home), this month’s winner is Off the Grill! (Of course, I still am a fan of Maw n’ Paw BBQ).

“It was the best of Q, it was the best of Q.” (Sorry, Mr. Dickens!).

Happy Eating!

Check out more food articles and more of Terrance’s Great Food Search column in our Food Fun section. And check out a KRL staff profile this week on Terrance!

Terrance V. Mc Arthur worked for the Fresno County Public Library for three decades. He is retired, but not retiring. A storyteller, puppeteer, writer, actor, magician, basketmaker, and all-around interesting person, his goal is to make life more unusual for everyone he meets.