by Jim Mulligan

What do sweet bread, suicide squads, tangy cheese, and crisp wine all have in common? They are all part of the rich culture and traditions that evolved on the nine volcanic islands in the North Atlantic Ocean: the Azores. The islands that make up the Azores are one of the autonomous regions of Portugal; the people of the Azores have their own government while enjoying the rights and privilege of Portuguese citizenship. Europeans, mostly early Portuguese, and other groups, began to inhabit the islands in the 1400s. Located just over 800 miles east of the Iberian Peninsula, the semi-remote location has allowed the residents to develop a unique island culture while also clinging to many traditions of their forefathers.

If you live in the Central Valley, anywhere from Tulare to Manteca, you may be well-aware of the pockets of Portuguese immigrants who work diligently to keep their heritage alive. Close to 99 percent of the Central Valley Portuguese population migrated directly from the Azores. They may be from Pico or Terceira, San Jorge or Miguel, but they are 100 percent Azorean. So strong is the connection to the old country, each year many folks make the transatlantic trek to participate in saint day celebrations and festas that their families have orchestrated and enjoyed for many years.

One such celebration, Sanjoaninas, held in the historic capital of the Azores, Angra do Heroisimo, on the island of Terceira, is 10 days of merrymaking that few have ever experienced. Saint John, in Portuguese São João, is the celebrated patron of festivities. In addition to food booths selling local culinary favorites like blood sausage – surprisingly delicious and not what one might think – and filozes, delicately fried donuts dipped in sugar while still warm. Beer, wine, and sangria also flow freely, including from street vendors who carry a keg on their back for easy pouring to thirsty parade spectators. The parades draw community bands and dance troops from other islands, mainland Portugal, and the good ol’ USA. On our trip this summer we bumped into people from Riverdale, Tulare, Manteca, and Hanford.

The main street in Angra, just before the 9 p.m. start of the parade; the parade ended at 3 a.m.

The Azores is a playground for adventure enthusiasts. From hiking to paragliding, and world-class scuba diving in the clear Atlantic waters, there’s no shortage of activities to get your adrenaline pumping. While the Azores are a treasure trove for water sports, we decided to tackle the natural volcanic exploration options while on the island of Pico. Pico gets its name from the huge volcanic mountain that juts up from the center of the island. Now dormant, it produced lava tubes that are now a spelunker’s paradise.

Spelunking in the lava tubes on Pico is a highlight for any visitor.

Don’t leave the Azores without experiencing the local cuisine. The islands offer a blend of Portuguese flavors and unique Azorean twists. Fresh seafood, succulent beef, and an abundance of dairy products from the happy cows grazing on the islands make for a delectable culinary experience. While on the Island of Terceira, our dear friends treated us to an island specialty, a slow-cooked beef stew called Alcatra, served with sweet bread.

Alcatra: a stew specialty of the island of Terceira.

The Azores boast a unique cultural tapestry influenced by a rich history of Portuguese colonization, early settlers from Europe, and centuries of maritime connections. This blend of cultures is reflected in the architecture, traditions, and folklore, adding an extra layer of charm to your visit. A controversial cultural tradition includes bullfighting, but the Azoreans give a twist to what you might remember from those Bugs Bunny cartoons. The fighter takes his stabs at the bull from horseback, which is exhilarating to watch, but what really sets Azorean bullfighting apart is the suicide squad. These pack of exquisitely adorned men form a line in front of the bull at the end of the fight, and as the bull charges, they all pile on top until he is subdued. A bullfight is not for everyone and has its detractors, but it is a piece of culture that is a spectacle of unrivaled excitement.

The suicide squad goes to work in the bull ring on Terceira.

The Azores are fiercely committed to preserving their natural treasures. The archipelago has been recognized for its sustainable tourism practices and is a shining example of responsible tourism. While you enjoy the beauty of the islands, you can do so with a clear conscience, knowing that your visit contributes to their preservation.

A few members of a local dance troop gearing up for the parade, posed with Kristi.

My wife and I took the opportunity to visit these beautiful islands and had the connection of friends who live on the island part of the year. We found the islands to be charming, quiet (except during the festas), full of options for adventure and relaxation, and an excellent place to find good food and drink. It definitely has a different feel than Hawaii, but equally as inviting.

The cuisine didn’t disappoint on Pico. The island is especially known for its wine, the crisp white was fantastic.

Jim Mulligan was born and raised in Selma. He has been employed in Reedley on and off for the last twenty-plus years. He married his college sweetheart, a Reedley-ite, Kristi. They now reside in Reedley amongst their children and grandchildren. Bonsai, traveling the world both near and far, and motorcycling take up most of his free time.